Table of Contents
Before we dive into the best surf books of 2024 I need to tell you something. There’s something inherently magical about riding the waves, feeling the salty breeze, and immersing oneself in the boundless expanse of the ocean. Surfing isn’t just a sport; it’s a lifestyle, a culture that transcends the ordinary. As the sun sets on the horizon of 2024, the world of surfing continues to captivate hearts, and what better way to ride this cultural wave than through the pages of a good surf book?
In the realm of surf literature, every book is a journey, a wave waiting to be surfed. As we explore the best surf books of 2024, we’ll discover the pages that transport us to the sandy shores, sharing stories that embody the spirit of the sea. So, grab your board, settle into the sand, and join me as we navigate through the literary tides of the surfing world.
1. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
If you’re a surfer and appreciate compelling storytelling, “Barbarian Days” is a must-read. Finnegan’s vivid descriptions of his lifelong love affair with waves and the diverse cultures surrounding them are simply captivating. The New Yorker columnist weaves together personal narratives, sociopolitical reflections, and the pursuit of the perfect wave. While Finnegan’s eloquent prose may occasionally verge on the verbose, the depth and richness of his storytelling make this book an enriching page-turner. Reading it, I found myself longing for that immersive connection with the ocean, a sentiment any surfer can resonate with.
2. In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road
Embark on a thrilling road trip with Allan Weisbecker as he searches for his missing friend and the perfect wave in “In Search of Captain Zero.” Weisbecker’s gripping narrative takes readers on a wild ride through Central America, blending elements of adventure, mystery, and the camaraderie that defines the surfing community. The book is a rollercoaster of emotions, from the highs of discovering hidden surf spots to the lows of the author’s personal journey. Weisbecker’s tale is a reminder that the quest for the perfect wave is often a journey into the depths of oneself.
3. Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art
While not exclusively a surf book, “Breath” by James Nestor delves into the importance of breath in various aspects of life, including surfing. Nestor explores how breath can impact athletic performance, and his insights resonate deeply with surfers seeking to enhance their connection with the waves. The book is a fascinating exploration of the science and art of breathing, offering practical lessons that can be applied both on and off the surfboard. As a surfer, I found myself incorporating Nestor’s teachings into my own practice, experiencing a newfound connection with the rhythm of the ocean.
4. Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
“Saltwater Buddha” is a refreshing and introspective journey into the world of surfing and spirituality. Jaimal Yogis recounts his personal experiences with surfing and the valuable life lessons he learned along the way. The book is a blend of adventure, philosophy, and humor, making it an easy and enjoyable read for surfers and non-surfers alike. Yogis’ exploration of the Zen philosophy within the context of riding waves adds a unique perspective to the surf literature landscape, leaving readers with a sense of inner calm and a renewed appreciation for the ocean.
5. The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean
Dive into the awe-inspiring world of giant waves with Susan Casey’s “The Wave.” This gripping narrative explores the science and mystery behind rogue waves, offering a thrilling adventure for anyone fascinated by the power of the ocean. Casey’s descriptive storytelling vividly portrays the colossal forces at play in the sea, leaving readers on the edge of their seats. As a surfer, I found myself both humbled and inspired by the immense energy within the waves, gaining a newfound respect for the unpredictable and magnificent nature of the ocean.
6.West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
Steven Kotler takes readers on a captivating journey in “West of Jesus,” blending elements of surfing, science, and spirituality. The book explores the neurobiology of the “flow state,” a mental state often experienced by surfers, and its connection to the pursuit of happiness. Kotler’s exploration of the intersection between surfing and neuroscience adds a unique and thought-provoking dimension to the surf literature genre.
7. The History of Surfing
Delve into the rich history of surfing with Matt Warshaw’s comprehensive guide, “The History of Surfing.” This authoritative and meticulously researched book traces the evolution of surfing from its ancient roots to the present day. Warshaw’s engaging narrative and collection of historical photographs provide a deep understanding of how surfing has shaped cultures and communities worldwide. As a surfer, reading this book felt like riding the waves of history, connecting with the roots of a sport that has become a global phenomenon.
8. The Shallows: What the Internet Is Doing to Our Brains
While not directly about surfing, “The Shallows” by Nicholas Carr explores the impact of technology on our brains and how it’s changing the way we think. As a surfer, I found the parallels between the book’s examination of the effects of technology and the evolving culture of surfing intriguing. Carr’s insightful analysis of how our brains adapt to the digital age serves as a thought-provoking backdrop for surfers who navigate both the virtual and ocean waves. It’s a fascinating read for those interested in the intersection of technology, culture, and the timeless pursuit of the perfect wave. You can find “The Shallows” on Amazon for a deeper dive into this captivating exploration.
9. Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding
Explore the art and science behind surfboard design in “Surf Craft” by Richard Kenvin. This visually stunning book delves into the evolution of surfboard shapes and the creative minds behind the designs. Kenvin’s in-depth analysis and beautiful illustrations showcase the diversity of surfboard craftsmanship, offering a fresh perspective on the symbiotic relationship between surfers and their boards. As a surfer, reading “Surf Craft” deepened my appreciation for the intricate details that contribute to the perfect ride.
10. The Finest Line: The Global Pursuit of Big-Wave Surfing
Brace yourself for an adrenaline-pumping adventure in “The Finest Line” by Rusty Long. This book takes readers on a global journey to some of the most challenging and awe-inspiring big-wave surf spots. Long’s firsthand accounts and the jaw-dropping photographs capture the intensity and bravery of surfers facing colossal waves. Reading this book, I felt a rush of excitement and a newfound respect for those pushing the limits of what’s possible in the world of big-wave surfing.
